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Whenever curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This accolade has made the family completely surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a high position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent meals at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to echo outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.